Norway for Christmas 2023
Date of Trip: 16th to 29th December 2023
Mode: Car – Vauxhall Corsa 1.4 SXI and 2 x mates – Milo & Romeo
Route: Brighouse to Dover, then ferry to Calais, then to Amsterdam (Overnight stay) – Amsterdam to Hamburg (Stay overnight) via Bremen for lunch – Hamburg to Copenhagen (Overnight stay) - Overnight ferry to Oslo from Copenhagen then drive Oslo to Lillehammer
Description
Christmas in Norway was a different trip than to going to the Alps but one I was keen to do. Elaine not so! She preferred to go to Tenerife for some winter sun. It is also a mega busy time of the year for her as she has an online retail business.
After much persuasion and after flipping a coin, we agreed Norway would be the trip. Elaine with my daughter and her partner (Now husband), would fly out to Oslo on the 22nd of December, then return to the UK on Boxing Day, in time for work the next day. I on the other hand would have a road trip with the dogs taking 2 weeks!
I have learnt over the years that when I have time, the best way to do a road trip is to get up early and hit the road and try to be in the place I am staying at night, by lunchtime that day. That way, I get to explore the cities and places that I have not visited before.
I worked in London, so drove down to London from Brighouse in West Yorkshire with Milo and Romeo (our Pomeranian dogs) on Sunday 10th December, stayed in my apartment before headed off on Saturday 16th, 2023.
Saturday 16th, 2023
Early start from London for the 06.55am ferry from Dover to Calais. You need to be there 90 minutes prior to departure. It is seventy miles from London, so I set off at 4am.
We have European passports for our 2 x dogs and providing their Rabies vaccination is up to date, it is straight forward to take them into Europe. Just a note, vaccinations must be done in Europe and recorded on their EU passports. A British vet can give the rabies vaccination, but it cannot be entered onto their passport. If you do not have an EU passport for your pet, you must get an Animal Health Certificate (AHC) that is issued within 10 days of your travel in the UK. These cost about £200 per dog. The only other thing you need before bringing your pet back to the UK, is a Tapeworm treatment for each pet – you cannot return to UK for 24 hours after treatment but must do so before 5 days. This is for any pet whether you have an EU passport or an AHC.
The drive down was quick and the boarding of the ferry straight forward. Once aboard, I took the boys to the Pet lounge for the one and a half hour crossing. This is only available on P&O ships, and it is inside with an outside walking deck. They provide free tea, coffee, and soft drinks. The cost to use the Pet Lounge is £12 per pet, each way.
The ferry takes longer than the Channel Tunnel however when I checked the price of the tunnel, it was an additional £100 return, so I chose the ferry.
Arrival was straight forward as we disembarked the ferry. We hit the road heading north towards Amsterdam covering a further 230 miles. The weather today was foul, and it rained all the way through France, Belgium and on through Holland to Amsterdam.
I made a mistake with the hotel’s location, as it is 30km away from the centre of Amsterdam. Arriving late afternoon and the rain still quite heavy, I decided it had been a long day, and I would take the dogs for a walk around the hotel, which was near Schiphol airport. After an early burger at the local McDonald’s and shattered from the early start, I had an early night and missed going into Amsterdam.
Sunday 17th, 2023
Early start hitting the road for the 300-mile journey to Hamburg with a couple of hours stop off in Bremen for lunch.
The weather was still mucky today but without rain. That was replaced with fog, so the drive was hard going. Nevertheless, we arrived in Bremen at 11.am. Much of Bremen was destroyed during the war but after the rebuild, it is a vibrant city. I parked in a multistorey in the central business district and headed towards the stunning Bremen Cathedral. As it was Sunday, many of the shops were closed, however, just outside the cathedral was a fabulous German Christmas Market. The boys appreciated a couple of hours walking around whilst I appreciated sampling the fine German cuisine on offer from the many stalls, as well as a vast variety of beers, but with another eighty miles to cover before arriving in Hamburg, I reluctantly gave them a miss! Bremen is a beautiful city with stunning architecture, not least the Town Hall and statute of Roland on the marketplace. The Old Town Hall was built as a Gothic Hall structure in the early 15th century and renovated in the so-called Weser Renaissance style in the early 17th century. A New Town Hall was built next to the old one in the early 20th century as part of an ensemble that survived the bombardments during the Second World War. Well worth the stop off!
We arrived in Hamburg at our hotel at 3pm then headed straight out to the Brooktorkai/Ericus quarter surrounded by the Speicherstadt UNESCO World Heritage Site, Brooktorhafen harbour and the connecting canal to Holländischbrookfleet.
As it is Sunday, very few shops were open but again we came across a German Christmas Market within the Brooktorkai area of the city. The architecture here is stunning and worth a stroll around. After sharing a couple of Bratwurst with the boys, we headed back to the hotel just as the rain started, full and content.
Hamburg is a beautiful city and worth a much longer stay than an afternoon and evening.
Monday 18th December 2023
From Hamburg, there are a couple of routes that you can take to get to Copenhagen. The one I did not take was via Puttgarden in Germany to Rody (Denmark) by ferry. This trip is also one hundred miles less than the route I took, and the ferry costs about Euros 170 return.
I chose the scenic route via Odense, which is all by road and over the most spectacular bridges imaginable. The only consideration I chose not to take into consideration was the weather, so the route was not scenic because of thick fog.
This morning in Hamburg we had an 8.30am visit to the Vet to get the boys their Tapeworm treatment. Norway is not a full member of the EU so have their own requirements for pet entry like the UK does. Whilst the vet was super, they did insist on a full health check as the boys were not registered with them. Their Rabies vaccination was due in March, so I took the opportunity to get them up to date too. Total cost was £188.00 and their EU passports up to date.
Straight off then for the 300-mile journey from Hamburg to Copenhagen via Odense. We did not see anything at all as the fog was so thick. The only thing that changed was how cold it got as we approached Copenhagen.
Parking in the city centre near our hotel was testing and quite expensive. It cost £35.15 to park over 12 hours. Settled in, we hit the town centre for early dinner and an explore.
The Christmas lights in Copenhagen are amongst the most beautiful I have seen, with streets themed as you walk around.
Christmas lights stretch across the streets, lighting up the dark skies. The smell of freshly baked pastry and hot coffee hang in the air and people wrap themselves in warm winter clothing to go shopping for Christmas gifts. Copenhagen is a wonderful place to experience Christmas as the city seems to come to life during this festive season. The world-famous Tivoli Amusement Park, located in the heart of Copenhagen, is lit by thousands of Christmas lights during this time of year. Many Danes go to Tivoli to enjoy a day of Christmas celebration with their family or loved ones. There is simply no other place to be if you want to soak up the atmosphere. The amusement park is transformed into a winter wonderland as stalls are set up throughout the park selling decorations, gifts, food, and beverages like coffee and hot chocolate and many of the rides are open.
It really is beautiful with the fabulous, themed squares, hotels, and shops in the city centre.
Rain, cold and a desire to eat finally ended our evening.
Tuesday 19th December 2023
The ferry today does not depart until 3pm, so a leisurely day exploring the delights of Copenhagen.
The Oresund Bridge is a must see and can be seen from strategic points around Copenhagen. Sadly because of fog, I had to wait for the return trip to see it. This is the second largest Bridge in Europe with it landing on a man-made island in the middle of the sea, from where the road and rail link, ducks down into a tunnel. The bridge is the link between Denmark and Sweden. The toll if you want to cross, is a staggering £55 each way or DKK 455. I took the view from afar!
No visit to Copenhagen should miss (at least see it once) the famous Little Mermaid on Langelinie Promenade. It is a lovely walk along the water with magnificent views of the city. The boys loved being off their leads and getting loads of attention from the coach loads of tourists, visiting the Little Mermaid.
A trip to Nyhvn for another stroll, saw the multicoloured townhouses built around the 17th century. A mixture of homes, restaurants, and cafes, it is fabulous place for lunch. It is on the waterfront so wrap up, as it was getting quite cold when we were there but absolutely a must see in this lovely city.
Finally, after lunch we drove to the ferry port and boarded the Pearl Seaway for our overnight crossing from Copenhagen to Oslo in Norway. The Danes are a little relaxed in comparison to boarding UK ferries. As soon as we arrived, we boarded the ferry. No stamp for the passport and no real checks. We could go straight to our ‘Pet Friendly cabin’ where the boys settled in on a bunk.
Time for a couple of hours with my head into my Kindle before heading up to dinner (included in price quoted). Romeo has been on multiple ferries but for some reason, whilst he is fine in the cabin, he does not like going on the deck – not even for a pee! He would rather hang on until we get off than pee outside!
More Kindle after dinner then lights out for a pleasant night’s sleep on a calm sea.
Wednesday 20th December 2023
After a nice hot shower, coffee, and a couple of pastries, I try again to entice Romeo to pee to no avail. Milo showing off, was peeing on any post or pillar in sight! I am sure just to score brownie points over Romeo!
A few days before the trip I discovered a couple of friends were in Oslo when I was there, so I invited them to the cabin for a couple of days, which they accepted.
The first task on arrival was to pick up Scott and Harry from their hotel before the 80-mile drive just before Lillehammer, which became my home for the next 7 days. The difference here was the snow and cold. The drive up was quick on cleared and traffic free roads, to a small place about 15 minutes north of Gjovik and about 30 minutes south of Lillehammer.
Thankfully, I have Michelin All Season 2 tyres on my car – without we would have been stuck! On this point, Winter tyres are compulsory in Norway unless you have the snow symbol on your All-Season tyres, which I have.
The cabin is magical with open fire, 3 x bedrooms and sits on a large lake with its own boat jetty. The views are stunning across the lake – much of which is frozen.
After exploring the cabin, we headed up to Lillehammer. Lillehammer was the home to the 1992 Winter Olympics and is a small village. It is much, much quieter than the Alps with very few international tourists this time of year. Most people we met were Norwegian.
The centre of Lillehammer is known as a UNIK town (Unique or one of a kind) with its charming shopping environment, its culture and delightful atmosphere. The old wooden buildings make walking the main street special, and it is combined with modern and interesting shops. You will find a lot of specialized stores and a variety of shops offering clothes, shoes, sports, jewellery, watches, interior, flowers, craft products, souvenirs, and a grocery store. In addition, there are galleries, museum and a lot of nice cafes and restaurants.
After a good fettle around town in the snow, we headed to one of the local pubs for dinner. Just a word of caution, a pint of lager will set you back about £12.00, so much more expensive than the UK.
The weather is now around -14 degrees outside as nightfall comes, so we head back to the cabin, get the roaring fire going and drink some of the cheap alcohol we have brought from the UK in the car.
Thursday 21st December 2023
After a good night sleep in a toasty cabin, we decided to head back toward Lillehammer for more exploring.
It was bitter cold with the temperature on the car showing -14 degrees. The cabin was on a narrow track with about a mile to travel to hit the main road. By the time we hit the main road the car was over heating with no warm air coming through the air conditioner. We stopped for about 15 minutes and started again only to discover the temperature gauge shoot into the red zone again. I thought it best to call my mechanic back in the UK and immediately he told me I had not put enough antifreeze in the cooling system, which should be at least 50% in such weather. Luckily, we managed to limp to an open petrol station and as we arrived the system seemed to clear, and the gauge went down to normal. We filled the water reservoir with pure antifreeze, and all seemed well again with the car. I bought extra just in case we had a similar problem.
Today we explored the delights of Lillehammer further and found ourselves back in the pub as Harry’s attire was lacking for such freezing weather.
After lunch it started to snow and quite heavily. We decided the open fire, back in the cabin, was a better option, drinking some of the wine we had brought. A trip to the supermarket on the way back to buy dinner and food for Christmas became quite a frightful trip because of the thickness of the snow falling. We got back safely and enjoyed the views from the warmth of the cabin until Scott & Harry decided they would go down to the boat jetty to do ‘Snow Angels’ in the snow. I stayed with the boys by the fire and watched through the large windows overlooking the lake.
Nice dinner of chicken and veg for dinner with copious amounts of alcohol as we savoured the Christmas atmosphere of the beautiful cabin, open fire and watching the heavy snow fall through the picture windows of the cabin overlooking the lake.
Friday 22nd December 2023
Unfortunately, overnight we had over a foot of snow that had fallen, so we had to dig the car out. This is where the All-Season Tyres came into their own. Better still and quite remarkably, just before we headed off for the trip to Oslo, a snow plough came down our narrow lane to clear the vast amounts of snow. Without this divine intervention, we would have struggled to get out.
Today was the day Scott and Harry were flying back to the UK and the day Elaine, Sophie and Jack were arriving from the UK, with just a 2-hour gap, so it worked out perfectly. This trip back to Oslo airport was easy as they had cleared the main roads of snow, and the goodbyes to Scott and Harry then the hellos to Elaine, Sophie and Jack, went smoothly. Onward back to the cabin, then onto Lillehammer for a tour and a meal in a pub I had booked. No more snow today but getting colder.
The cabin drew us back after dark for the roaring fire and Christmas tipple! We also found National Lampoons, Christmas Vacation on Netflix, which is a family tradition! We can almost quote the script word for word but still laugh at all the antics despite seeing it dozens and dozens of times!
Saturday 23rd December 2023
As part of Jack and Sophie’s Christmas presents, I had booked them a taboggan run up on the Olympic Park. When we arrived, they had some places left so Elaine and I joined them!
Basically, as can be seen in our photos, you have a small taboggan with a ‘steering wheel.’ You then get pulled to the top of the hill on a T Bar lift. Then you get the thrill and excitement of speeding down the 1 km run to the bottom. I must say the speed is fast! You then get pulled up again and we all raced down with much laughter and frivolity. We also confirmed what we always knew, and that is Sophie is so competitive!
Elaine managed 3 x runs in the bitter freezing weather, whilst we managed a few more before limping to the car, frozen solid and aching. It really was an exhilarating experience and one not to be missed. The cost was about £35 each, per hour.
Back to the cabin to warm up and lunch before heading back out early evening to a fabulous traditional Norwegian restaurant that I had booked back in Lillehammer. The Bryggerikjelleren Restaurant did not disappoint with a mixture of traditional Norwegian plates and Steak. It is also said to have the best menu in Lillehammer.
Nightcaps by the roaring fire back at the cabin.
Sunday 24th December 2023
Unlike the rest of Europe, Christmas in Norway starts today so everything is closed for the next 2 days, except for the ski slopes which close at 1pm. I was waiting for a new knee replacement so although I could not ski, I offered to take Sophie and Jack up to the slopes. We left the cabin at 7 am for the drive up to the slopes to discover the temperature was running at -18 degrees!
Unfortunately, the car temperature gauge again shot up to red with the water-cooling system frozen and with no heating in the car. Sophie was already a little wobbly about how cold it was going to be on the slopes, so when we had been sat in the car for half an hour, the excitement of the slopes had waned. The garage we visited the other day was closed so we had to limp on to Lillehammer to find a service station open. We had never been as grateful for the warmth of a petrol station shop, and they had coffee on tap too! More antifreeze added and the cooling system defrosted, we set off again. Now reaching the slopes to the north of Lillehammer, they decided it was far too cold with the temperature now at -22 degrees! I cannot say I blame them because if you have never experienced such cold temperatures, you really can not comprehend how quickly the cold penetrates even the best of winter clothing!
So back to the cabin we went! When we got back, Jack got out his drone and took some spectacular footage of the surrounding area and the lake which was beautiful. We stayed in today watching Christmas films, keeping the open fire stoked and partaking in the odd tipple. I cooked dinner and we had a great evening in front of the fire and tv.
Monday 25th December 2023
A traditional Christmas day with gifts exchanged with smoked salmon and bubbles for breakfast followed by me cooking our traditional 3 x course Turkey dinner in the afternoon. Prawn cocktail to start with Pavlova for dessert – home made of course!
In the afternoon we drove to Gjovik to have a walk around the town and work off some of the food excess. Gjovik is on Lake Mjosa (the same lake as where we are staying) and home to the world’s oldest paddle steamer still in service! Unfortunately, not running today, so we did not get to go on her.
Here you can also visit the Gjovik Olympic Hall, which was built for the 1994 Lillehammer Olympics and is the world’s largest spectator hall inside a mountain. It is open to the public all year round, except for Christmas Day! Nevertheless, with deep snow, we walked around Gjovik unabated, refreshed and only returning when the cold became unbearable.
The fire stoked and supper prepared, we did our best to finish the cheap alcohol we had brought with us and enjoyed the festive spirit for the final time.
Tuesday 26th December 2024
Today is the day we all head back home. After tidying the cabin and packing, we set off back to Oslo airport to drop Elaine, Sophie, and Jack for their 10.15am flight.
There had been no further snow fall overnight so the trip back to Oslo went smoothly. The boys and I headed into Oslo for a stroll around the town centre before boarding the ferry at 3pm, heading back to Copenhagen.
The trip was smooth and uneventful. Evening meal included, with Romeo refusing to pee until we got off the ferry! Thankfully, the seas were calm again on our return sailing and we had a pleasant sleep.
Wednesday 27th December 2023
On arrival in Copenhagen, we drove to the local vets to get the boys Tapeworm Treatment for our return to the UK. Unlike Hamburg the vet did not insist on a full health check, so the cost was much cheaper at £81.81.
We then went back to eye the Oresund Bridge which even from a distance is spectacular! We then hit the road heading to Hamburg. With the late departure from Copenhagen, it was always going to be early evening before we arrived in Hamburg. After check in, a quick walk with the boys then dinner.
Thursday 28th December 2023
An early start heading to Antwerp in Belgium meant we had to get 345 miles under our belt today which we did with ease. After check in, we hit the Town Centre which was heaving with people and incredibly busy. That said, having never visited Antwerp before, I was blown away with how beautiful it is.
In its centre, the centuries-old Diamond District houses thousands of diamond traders, cutters, and polishers. Antwerp’s Flemish Renaissance architecture is typified by the Grote Market, a central square in the old town and is spectacular.
I would highly recommend it for a weekend visit and was very pleasantly surprised. The old section of the Railway station is worth a look as is the whole of the town centre.
Friday 29th December 2024
Big drive day today heading back to Brighouse in West Yorkshire.
Antwerp to Calais for the 10.30am ferry was a 125-mile drive so an early start.
Dover to Brighouse 275 miles – do not forget the Dartford crossing toll only £2.50 but you pay online.
Summary:
If you take this trip at Christmas and are expecting a similar holiday to the Alps, with the same vibe, you will be disappointed.
This is a quite different holiday, which gives you the snow activity if you want it (albeit limited compared to the Alps), but it is incredibly quiet and quite an isolated holiday. There are very few international tourists at this time of year, but the locals are very friendly and welcoming.
Personally, I had never been to Norway but loved it. The peace and quiet, the beauty and cleanliness of the countryside, I found refreshing and relaxing. Eating out and alcohol is extremely expensive, compared to the UK. If you cook at home (which we did some nights) you can do it cheaper.
Would I go again – YES, Elaine NO
Other information
Ferries:
Dover – Calais
16th September 2023 - 06.55am departure from Dover – self, 2 x dogs in ‘Pet Lounge’, car – Return cost £267.00 – arrived Calais 09.30am.
Return journey, the same detail but departed Calais 10.30am and arrived in Dover 11.05am on the 29th of December 2023
Copenhagen – Oslo
19th December – 3pm departure from Copenhagen – Ship ‘Pearl Seaways’ – self, 2 x dogs in a ‘Pet Friendly Cabin overnight’ – car – Buffet evening meal on both legs of journey -Return cost £659.00 – arrived in Oslo at 10am on 20th December 2023
Return journey the same departure times and arrival times – Oslo 26th December arrived in Copenhagen 27th December 2023
Accommodation:
Amedia Amsterdam Airport – Trademark Selection by Wyndham 16th/17th December 2023
Delightful hotel room – my rating is four star –– No food served - Cost Euros 88.82 plus Euros 40 for having dogs in the room. (£105.55) - About 30km from the centre of Amsterdam
Super 8 by Wyndham Hamburg Mitte 17th/18th December 2023
Pleasant hotel room – my rating is three star – basic food served like pizza but all frozen and cooked – it filled a hole – Cost Euros 57.50 plus Euros 20 for dogs. (£73.18) On the outskirts of town but walkable in nice weather
ProfilHotels Richmond – Copenhagen 19th/20th December 2023
Ok hotel – quite dated but in the centre of the main shopping area – also one of the cheapest I could find – my rating is two star – Cost DKK 749.50 plus 300DKK for dogs (£89.29)
Ferry Overnight 21/22nd December 2023
Airbnb 22nd December to 26th December (5 nights) £1,129.43 Fabulous 3 x bedroomed cabin on side of lake with open fire and its own boat jetty
Hotel Glinde Hamburg 27th/28th December 2023
On the outskirts of Hamburg – my rating is three star – Cost Euros 74.45 plus no charge for dogs (£66.32)
Ibis Budget Antwerpen Port 28th/29th December 2023
As all Ibis budget hotels, clean and suit’s purpose – my rating is two star – Cost Euros 63.00 (£66.27) with no charge for dogs.
Total Miles: 2,500 return plus overnight ferry and cross channel ferry
Total cost of trip.
Ferries: £926.00
Hotels: £400.61
Air Bnb: £1129.43
Fuel: Total £489.31
Tolls & Parking: £114.09
Vet for Dogs: £269.81
Total Cost of trip excluding food £3,329.25
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